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| Dos Pilas, Stela 16 |
Merle Greene Robertson was an artist, scholar, and Maya explorer, but these are merely labels. Her entrance into the study, portrayal, and exploration of the Maya culture was a catalyst for introducing the ancient Maya to the modern world through art, photography, and exploration of numerous Maya sites. After reading her autobiography, Never in Fear, she well could have been the glue that stuck it all together, and with fellow scholars, shaped an understanding of the Maya civilization. She galvanized others—as an organizer, planner, dynamo. She knew everyone in the field, from Eric S. Thompson and Alberto Ruz to Michael Coe, George Stuart, and anyone and everyone who came after.
INCIDENTS OF TRAVEL IN YUCATÁN
Her enthusiasm and limitless energy in regard to Maya culture made her a fulcrum at the very moment the Maya re-emerged on the world stage after an unduly long absence. The first European and American explorers who stumbled onto these pyramid sites in the 1840s were floored by what they saw. A blockbuster bestseller in 1846, Incidents of Travel in Yucatán, written by John Lloyd Stephens with drawings by Frederick Catherwood, two explorers who entered Maya sites at Uxmal, Chichen Itza, and Copan for starters, literally blew the collective mind of the world. No one had any idea that intricate stepped pyramids lay hidden, covered by centuries of vines and foliage, deep in Mexican and Central American jungles. Before the release of Stephens' and Catherwood's book, the word "bestseller" had not yet been coined.
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| Frederick Catherwood Drawing |
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| Incidents of Travel in Yucatán, Vol. One |
The world clambered for more knowledge of this mysterious unknown civilization, hidden in southern rainforests of North America.
Stephens' concise writing along with Catherwood's magnificent drawings assisted in shaping the identity of one of the world's great civilizations—the Maya. Previously unknown, they were now in an iconic limited club along with other greats such as Egypt, Greece, Rome, China, India, and Persia.
ROBERTSON AND HER WORK
Robertson is nearly indefinable, so interwoven was the role she played with her Maya work over the past 50 years—from assisting in breaking the Maya hieroglyphic code, to co-founding the Palenque Roundtable talks, trekking to and exploring scores of pyramid sites in Mexico and Central America. Not to mention the body of work she left of an ancient archeological rubbing technique using Japanese ink on rice paper.
Robertson created beautiful reproductions of countless stela, columns, tombs, sarcophagus lids, often produced in the most unfavorable circumstances—trekking through rugged terrain and dense rainy forests crawling with snakes and bothersome mosquitoes, including the occasional close call with grave robbers. A life of leisure was never to be hers. She wouldn't have wanted it. Not unlike Frederick Catherwood's drawings, Robertson's sublime rubbings brought the Maya to the world visually.
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| Ixkun Stela 1 (Merle Greene Robertson) |
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| Finished Rubbing, Stela 16, Dos Pilas |
Merle Greene Robertson was a legend in the world of Meso-American studies and Maya epigraphy. With over five thousand rubbings to her name and thanks to a generous heart, many of these gems have landed in museums and universities throughout the world. She not only explored these faraway Maya sites but shared her knowledge with others. Many expeditions included lucky students who accompanied her in what for each of them would no doubt become the experience of a lifetime.
As an anthropology student at New College of Florida, Carol Wheeler, anthropologist and writer from Guadalajara, Mexico, spent summer, 1977, in Palenque to prepare her undergraduate thesis. A former art major, she planned to do field drawings at the site. She explains how she met Robertson along with artist, author, and Maya scholar, Linda Schele.
"Both Linda Schele and Merle Greene Robertson were in residence that summer," said Wheeler. "I followed them around like a puppy dog, earnest and annoying as only undergrads can be. They were so kind and gracious about it. Linda listened to my questions and explained their work in her Texas accent and Ms. Robertson invited us to her cottage in the afternoons for lemonade... In my mind, Howard Carter had nothing on these brilliant women."
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| Never in Fear |
NEVER IN FEAR
With a career that spanned close to 60 years, it will be impossible in this single post to condense all that Robertson accomplished. In reading her autobiography, Never in Fear, I didn't expect to be so wowed—but I was. Turning page after page of her many accomplishments and explorations, it seemed she lived her life in warp-speed.
So, do we shape our lives, or are our lives shaped by our experiences and those we meet along the way? After stumbling onto Robertson's autobiography, it seems her future unfolded while she was growing up in rural Montana where she developed an interest in Native American culture.
EARLY BEGINNINGS
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| A Doubtful Handshake, Charles Russell 1910 |
Born in Great Falls, Montana, she lived on land flanked by the Rocky Mountains. Her interest in Native American culture was ignited when her father took her on visits to see Blackfoot Indian chiefs. She was also influenced by nearby Montana neighbor Charles M. Russell, one of the greatest western artists of the US. Both Russell and her father encouraged her interest in art and drawing. The duo of meeting Blackfoot Indians and watching Russell paint may have shaped her future early on.
Eventually her family moved to Seattle. She attended university in California and graduated with a degree in art. Later she attended the Instituto Allende in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, where she studied watercolors, oils, photography, and mural painting for three summers before earning her MFA from University of Guanajuato.
Afterwards she went to Tikal, Guatemala, to work on a University of Pennsylvania project where she made architectural drawings of the Central Acropolis. At that time she also started recording monuments by means of rubbings. The technique is an ancient one, with earliest known rubbings taken either from Buddhist texts on wooden blocks in Japan, 8th century, or from rubbings practiced in China, 2nd century. But Robertson brought it to an art form. Her perfection of the technique showed how rubbings could be a means of documentation of Maya relief sculpture.
SUMMER EXCURSIONS TO MAYA COUNTRY
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| Central Acropolis, Tikal (Afar) |
Robertson's working life was as a teacher at Robert Louis Stevenson School in Pebble Beach, California, where she met her second husband, Lawrence "Bob" Robertson. In the summer of 1960 they began taking students to Guatemala and Mexico for summer vacation. The main purpose of the jungle trips was to record in photos and rubbings the magnificent monuments on which the ancient Maya carved. Even as early as the 1960s, the looting of Maya sites was becoming common and Robertson's desire was to record as much of the Maya civilization as possible before it was hacked to pieces or sold off to private collectors.
PALENQUE AND PACAL'S TOMB
Though Tikal initially stole her heart since it was her first jungle excursion, once in Mexico, Palenque replaced Tikal as her number one site. Her documentation of the site was revolutionary. She started with the Temple of the Inscriptions. In order to photograph it before beginning her rubbing, giant scaffolding needed to be constructed of mahogany beams and planks for her to stand on. Nothing she did was easy. Her rubbing of Pacal's sarcophagus lid, Palenque's greatest ruler, took super-human tenacity.
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| Sarcophagus Lid of Pacal, Palenque |
In her words, "The first thing I started on was the Sarcophagus lid, down in the crypt of the Temple of the Inscriptions. A rubbing had never been done before and for that matter, it had never been photographed head on, only at an angle, by Alberto Ruz...I worked locked in with only a lantern to see by. It was quite a trick getting myself on top of the lid. It took seven sheets of rice paper (1 x 2 meters) to do the rubbing. Also, I had to use oil paint instead of sumi ink; there could be no way I could work on so much space and keep an inked area from running into the sheet of paper next to it. After two weeks of working on the Sarcophagus rubbing, doing several parts of it over time, I felt that Pacal was not only my friend but a long lost relative."
After the lid, she began on the side. "I was ready to do the glyphs around the edge of the Sarcophagus lid...Standing in the water on the floor of the tomb, trying to do the rubbings and not getting the paper wet was no small feat, especially since the space between the walls of the crypt and the sarcophagus was barely wide enough for me to stand. All of the rubbing equipment had to be kept on top of the sarcophagus, making it difficult to reach when standing on the floor.
THE SCULPTURE OF PALENQUE
"Inch by inch, as different features of the ancestors of Pacal emerged, it was as though I was speaking with these dead kings—I now knew them, could call them a name. Being alone in the tomb was like being in their world long ago."
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| Temple of Inscriptions, Pacal's Burial Site |
The results of her Palenque work in the 1970s was documented in a series titled The Sculpture of Palenque, in which she precisely detailed how the intricate structures were built, layer by layer. She searched out pigment sources in that region to exactly duplicate the colors used by Palenque artists, all those centuries ago. The impressive collection of Merle's rubbings represents a major archive of Maya stone monuments throughout the Maya world and has been a major resource for scholars studying the culture.
At Palenque, she met Moises Morales, head guide and major domo of the site. Her friendship with Moises and the Morales family would be a staple in her and Bob's lives for decades. At first they rented a room from him and later built a house next to his in the La Cañada compound in the 1970s.
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| Temple of the Sun Reconstruction Painting |
Merle and Bob worked together on the Maya projects—she as artist and he as jack of all trades, performing behind the scene duties that greased the wheels. Their presence in Palenque became an interest to traveling scholars and even tourists, and their house, Na Chan-Bahlum in Palenque, became a meeting place for every archeologist working in Chiapas, the Yucatán Peninsula, and Belize as their door was always open. Palenque is where Linda Schele and Merle met and became fast friends.
A MAYA ROUNDTABLE IN PALENQUE
In 1973, much was beginning to gel in the Maya world. Through conversations initially with Linda Schele and soon with other Mayanists, an idea emerged, the story goes. Why not have a gathering of like minds? They put together a list and in September, sent out feelers for a get-together. Soon after the letters went out, Merle heard from famed archeologist Michael Coe. He suggested that December would be a good time. Not much notice. But the idea struck a nerve and the first Maya conference took place mere months later, mid-December, 1973, and through discussions, lectures, late nights, and visits to the pyramid structures footsteps away, it served as a beginning to breaking the Maya hieroglyphic code and figuring out just who the ancient Maya were. The conference was named Primera Mesa Redonda de Palenque.
The topics on the table ranged from art, history, chronology, iconography, early explorers, inscriptions, sacrifice, trade, and the surrounding area. Word soon got out and everyone came: guides, archeologists, scholars, artists, students. Fourteen universities from the US, Mexico, and Canada came and everyone was asked to have a paper ready to give as a lecture on the art, architecture, or iconography of Palenque. The second year, 1974, the governor of Chiapas, Gobernador Dr. Manuel Velasco Suarez, opened the ceremonies in Palenque's Municipal Auditorium, it had grown that much. The first had convened in Merle and Bob's house in Palenque, Na Chan-Bahlum.
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| Temple of the Inscriptions (Merle Greene Robertson) |
Eventually, through the melding of minds, the Maya hieroglyphic code was broken, the turning point being the first Roundtable in 1973. But that is another story.
Robertson was asked to do The Florida Project and finished it in 1976—beautiful reconstructive color paintings of the Temple of the Sun and Palenque trade, six feet in height each. Other panels accompanied these as well.
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| Rubbing from the Platform of the Eagles and Jaguars, Chichen Itza |
Bob and Merle lived in Palenque and helped host Mesas Redondas until Bob's death in May, 1981. Merle went on to do many more Maya rubbings in the Yucatán, specifically at Chichen Itza, where at Hacienda Chichen, Robertson was given her own suite which became headquarters for her crew. After the Chichen Itza project, Merle traveled the world, visiting other archeologists, artists, and friends while painting and walking ancient ruins everywhere on the planet.
MAYA SITES VISITED
During her time studying and recording the Maya, these are some of the pyramid sites she worked at: Tikal, Sayaxche, Dos Pilas, Aguateca, Itsimte, Naranjo, Tamarindito, Ixkun, Ixtutz, El Peten, Seibal, Yaxchilan, Lubaantun, El Baul, Bilboa, Jimbal, Uaxactun, Lamanai, Caracol, El Palmar, Calakmul, Copan, Palenque, and Chichen Itza.
Merle Greene Robertson died at her home in San Francisco in 2011. She was 97 years old.
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