THE TRAGIC LOVE STORY OF THE YUCATAN—ALMA REED AND FELIPE CARRILLO PUERTO

 

Felipe Carrillo Puerto and Alma Reed (By Merida de Yucatan)

Star Crossed Lovers, Part 2

Felipe Carrillo Puerto, Yucatan's progressive governor of the Yucatan, and San Francisco journalist Alma Reed are two names forever linked to Yucatan history. Their romance fueled pages in newspapers on both sides of the border, but the unlikely outcome of their very public romance enlisted all the elements of Greek tragedy. 

Reed was born in San Francisco and became one of the city's first women reporters. An advocate for the poor, Reed assisted a Mexican family in commuting the death sentence of their 17-year old son in 1921. The story was picked up by the Mexican press and due to heightened publicity, Mexico President Alvaro Obregon invited Reed to visit his country.

ENTER EDWARD THOMPSON

As a stringer correspondent, she also reported for The New York Times and was sent to meet Edward Thompson, the leading archeologist excavating Chichen Itza. During the visit, Reed met Felipe Carrillo Puerto, dynamic governor of the State of Yucatan, also known as an agrarian reformer.

Felipe Carrillo Puerto, Agrarian Reformer

Carrillo had commissioned a road to be built from Merida to Chichen Itza, opening the budding archeological site to both tourists and scientists. To commemorate the event, he'd organized a welcome ceremony inviting North American journalists and archeologists. 

UXMAL AND CARRILLO 

At the ruins, Reed interviewed the famed Thompson who had gone to Yucatan specifically to excavate Chichen Itza. Thompson took a liking to Reed and divulged he had in fact dredged Chichen Itza's sacred cenote, garnering gold and jade jewelry and ornaments he'd taken from the sacrificial victims. Astonished by the enormity of Thompson's admission, like the true-born paparazzi she was, Reed asked Thompson to sign a confession, which he did.

Chicen Itza (By Frederick Catherwood)

After Chichen Itza, the assembled entourage went on to Uxmal. During this leg of the journey, Reed and Carrillo got acquainted. Reed was fascinated with the charismatic Carrillo who had been called both a Bolshevik and a Marxist for his sweeping reforms.

Caught in the Act, Thompson Dredging Chichen Itza Cenote

In her interview with the governor, Carrillo explained Yucatan had been inhabited by a handful of powerful families dating back to 1542 when Merida was founded. These wealthy landowners were basically slave masters and notorious for their cruel treatment of the Maya. 

REVOLUTIONARY IN THE MAKING

In 1910 Carrillo had fought alongside Emiliano Zapata in Central Mexico. From their association he took Zapata's battle cry, Tierra y Liberdad, (Land and Liberty) for his own. Back in Yucatan, Carrillo claimed part Maya, part Creole heritage and began his reforms by setting up feminist leagues in Merida that legalized birth control and the first family planning clinics in the Western Hemisphere. As governor, he became an agrarian reformer: He seized uncultivated land from powerful hacendados and distributed it to the Maya, stating it was their birthright. He built schools. He reformed the prison system. 

Carrillo Puerto Amongst His People (By Instituto de Anthropologia)

No small wonder Reed named him the Abraham Lincoln of Mexico. As a liberal she agreed with his reforms. And besides that, she was smitten. But as a divorced woman and a Catholic, she tried to ignore the feelings she was developing for the married father of four. She left for the U.S., vowing never to return, in hopes of severing ties in what was becoming amor calido or steamy romance as the English translation went.

Two months later, however, The New York Times sent her packing back to Mexico to cover the archeology scandal involving Edward Thompson and his dredging of the Chichen Itza cenote which she exposed. She had a job to do.

Carrillo Puerto and Reed (By Forasteros)

On her second round in Mexico, both Reed and Carrillo's feelings couldn't be ignored. In the ultimate taboo, Carrillo divorced his wife to become engaged to Reed. He even had a romantic love song composed for her, still popular today, La Peregrina (The Pilgrim). 

It seemed a match made in heaven. The two idealists prepared for their wedding which would take place in San Francisco. Reed hastened back to the U.S. to make arrangements before her permanent move to Mexico. 

SEND LAWYERS, GUNS AND MONEY

Shortly after her departure to the U.S., however, another Mexican revolution seemed imminent. Fighting had broken out in the Yucatan and henequen planters and hacendados were trying to overthrow Carrillo due to his reforms. President Obregon's right hand man, de la Huerta, was opposing him and because Carrillo backed Obregon, he was at risk. Carrillo was forced to find guns to fight both the planters and de la Huerta's forces. And to make matters worse, he now had a $250,000 reward on his head. 

To secure the guns and ammunition they would need to do battle, Carrillo went by night to the Progreso coast with three brothers and six friends as guards to catch a boat to New Orleans. Just as they waded out to the launch that would take them to the U.S. where they'd acquire the firearms needed for their revolution, a Navy captain signaled to soldiers lying in wait on shore. The soldiers rowed out and captured Carrillo who told his small group to not fight but to go peacefully.

De la Huerta's forces took them back to Merida and jailed them overnight for an arraignment in the morning. Carrillo refused to make a plea. He was, after all, governor of the state and refused to recognize a kangaroo court. He was condemned on January 3, 1924, and taken to Merida Cemetery where he, his brothers and friends were lined up against the wall to await the firing squad. The first round of volleys was sent over their heads—the soldiers didn't want to kill them, so fiercely loyal were the Yucatecans to Carrillo. 

The commander shouted that those soldiers were to be shot, and over the dead bodies of the first soldiers, Carrillo, brothers and friends were executed as they stood with their backs against the cemetery wall.  

Merida Cemetery Where Carrillo Puerto Is Buried

A MARTYR'S DEATH 

In San Francisco, Alma Reed had been alerted that trouble was at hand. She heard the news shortly afterwards that Carrillo had died in Yucatan, a martyr's death, at 49.

Reed insisted on returning to Merida to see the spot where Carrillo fell. She stayed but briefly in the Yucatan and on arriving back to New York, was sent on an assignment to Carthage to explore ancient ruins. She would never re-marry. Her reporting life eventually took her back to Mexico where she helped establish the artist Jose Clements Orozco. 

One of Reed's fears was that President Obregon had a hand in killing Carrillo. He had, after all, assassinated Zapata after luring him to a truce meeting along with Pancho Villa. Reed thought Carrillo's radicalism may have aroused opposition from the Mexican president but she could never prove the link. 

Isignia of Pueblo Felipe Carrillo Puerto

The pueblo of Chan Santa Cruz, south of Tulum, changed its name to honor the Yucatan governor, and goes by the name Felipe Carrillo Puerto. Alma Reed died in Mexico City at age 77 in November, 1966, while undergoing surgery.

Antoinette May's book The Passionate Pilgrim, the Extraordinary Life of Alma Reed, tells the story of Reed and Carrillo Puerto as does Alma Reed's Peregrina: Love and Death in Mexico.

If you enjoyed this post, check out  Where the Sky is Born: Living in the Land of the Maya, on Amazon. My website is www.jeaninekitchel.com. Books one and two in my Mexico cartel trilogy, Wheels Up—A Novel of Drugs, Cartels and Survival, and Tulum Takedown, are also on Amazon. And my journalistic overview of the Maya 2012 calendar phenomenon, Maya 2012 Revealed: Demystifying the Prophecy, is on Amazon.

 

HOW SAN FRANCISCO IGNITED THE RIGHT STUFF IN EMERGING ARTIST FRIDA KAHLO

Frida Kahlo, Self-Portrait with Monkeys

THE EVOLUTION OF FRIDA

Though much has been written about Frida Kahlo, one of the most celebrated women artists of our time, little is mentioned of her travels in the United States and specifically San Francisco in the 1930s, a period that shaped her voice as an artist. Her year in San Francisco also made a lasting impact on the city's local art scene.

Frida in America*—The Creative Awakening of a Great Artist, by Celia Stahr, documents her time in Gringolandia, as Kahlo nicknamed her neighbor to the north. According to Stahr, no other author has explored her body of work while living in the States in depth and there hasn't been a major Kahlo biography since Hayden Herrera's in 1983. However, Suzanne Barbezat's 2016, Frida Kahlo At Home, does an excellent job portraying key aspects of the artist's life and works with many visuals. 

BY TRAIN TO SAN FRANCISCO

Shortly after her marriage in 1929 to Diego Rivera, known for both his art and politics, they traveled from Mexico City to San Francisco. Rivera had been commissioned to paint a mural at the Pacific Stock Exchange, now the City Club. This would be Frida's first trip outside Mexico. After a stop to see friends and art dealers in Los Angeles, they headed to San Francisco by train. The tracks followed the Pacific, and sitting in the train car she sketched a picture of San Francisco which she had dubbed long before seeing it, "the city of the world." This drawing, now lost, included a city scene with rectangular skyscrapers and the ocean along with a self-portrait.

In Montgomery Street Apartment by Paul Juley

At 23, more than 20 years younger than her world famous husband, she was a novice painter while Rivera was at the height of his creative powers. When they stepped off the train, Rivera recalled he was "almost frightened to realize her imagined city was the very one we were now seeing for the first time."

FAMILY TIES

Frida Kahlo's Parents, Guillermo and Matilde 

Born to Guillermo Kahlo, her German father, and Oaxacan/Tehuantepec mother, Matilde Calderón, Frida had long planned to go to medical school and studied at the Prepa in Mexico City. Her university plans changed abruptly in September 1925 while riding a city bus that was hit full speed by a trolley on her way home from a shopping trip. In the accident, a metal pole impaled her pelvis, leaving her spinal column broken in three places along with a broken collarbone, pelvis and some ribs. She was in the hospital in a full plaster body cast for a month, but returned home six weeks later. Though told she would never walk again, with fixed determination, she began to walk haltingly in three months. No doubt part of her rapid recovery after the excruciating accident was due to the strength training she received with her father's help after contracting polio at age six. Guillermo trained her to be a strong athlete which provided her the freedom that usually only came to males in that era.

THE ACCIDENT'S EFFECTS

Sketch by Frida Kahlo of Bus Accident, 1926

Kahlo's horrifying accident irreversibly changed the course of her life—from a former student studying medicine to a budding player in the creative world of art. After the interruption of her medical studies, her drawing and painting took on greater significance as her physical movements were curtailed. Before the accident, Frida always accompanied her father, a professional photographer, on his photo shoots. He suffered from epilepsy and Frida's presence was a safeguard for both her father and his equipment should a seizure occur while he was working. It created a very close father-daughter bond. While her father tested out various settings, she would often serve as a model and learned to pose at an early age which served her well in the future as she gained fame.

The Bus by Frida Kahlo, 1929

Because of her physical limitations from the accident, she could no longer assist her father. Her mother realized the girl needed a creative outlet and hired a carpenter to create a lap easel. Matilde also suggested placing a mirror atop the bed's canopy for self-portraits. Soon after, Frida began applying pigment to small canvases and began drawing what she knew best—her friends and family. One of her early influences was the art of Leonardo Da Vinci and she tried using his techniques and symbolism in her paintings and iconic retablos.

COMRADE FRIDA

Frida Kahlo Painting in Bed (Artzocam)

After the accident she was introduced to the Communist party through a friend, Tina Modotti, an Italian American photographer and political activist who'd lived in Mexico since 1923. Through Tina's influence, Kahlo committed herself to communism after extensive reading about the Russian Revolution. In Tina's group, she was re-introduced to muralist Diego Rivera. She'd previously met him while he was painting a mural at the Ministry of Education where she goaded him to come off his scaffold and look at one of her paintings. He was duly impressed and later said her painting revealed "an unusual energy of expression and precise delineation of character."

By 1928 they began seeing each other after his divorce from second wife, Lupe Marín. Though he was a notorious womanizer, something about Frida kept him coming back. It could have been her blunt honesty or her raw talent as an untrained artist, Stahr writes. Along with that, her unconventional beauty was combined with a quick mind and sharp wit. Their interest in both art and politics ignited the relationship, plus they were attracted to the importance of creativity, black humor, and a passion for social justice.

Diego Rivera's Murals in Ministry of Education
Where He Met Frida

MEXICANIDAD 

They'd see each other at Tina's meetings and Rivera would take her home. There they'd discuss painting and its importance to a new post-revolutionary indigenist movement, Mexicanidad, which was often a topic in Tina's magazine, Mexican Folkways, where Rivera served as art director. Mexican Folkways' articles discussed excavations of Aztec sites, regional crafts and music traditions, children's art, and photos of diverse people and regions in Mexico.

In 1929, as her relationship with Rivera evolved, she joined the Communist Youth League. It was at this time she went into her full gender-neutral fashion look, wearing overalls or work outfits, no dresses, completed by a little black iron and sickle pin she wore on her collar.

Frida's Casa Azul, Coyoacán

A NEW LOOK

But when they married late that summer, Frida stepped out with a new look. Her wedding ensemble was a long ruffled skirt, white peasant blouse, and rebozo shawl, considered to be simple street clothes. To Frida, this outfit aligned her with working class indigenous women, indicating she was part Indian, thanks to her mother's family roots. Soon after, she began wearing a prominent jadeite necklace engraved with an Aztec symbol, the olin, found on the carved Aztec Calendar Stone. The carved glyph represented movement or the movement required to shift from one world into another, said Stahr. 

METAPHYSICS AND SYMBOLISM

Kahlo was a student of metaphysics and revered alchemy, the transformation of matter. She was well aware of symbolism and how it could stir the masses. Her peasant blouse emphasized her leftist leanings as a woman of the people as well as her purity as a young bride. She identified as a mestiza who was proud of her country's revolutionary ideals. In her marriage dress and in her first portrait painted as a married woman, Self Portrait, Time Flies, she laid out an intricate mythic framework of her desired alchemical union with Rivera, author Stahr stated. Rivera came to mysticism through his father, a Freemason and Rosicrucian. Kahlo came to it through her studies in all schools of philosophy at Prepa and through books friends shared with her. Metaphysics was at its height worldwide in the 1920s and 30s and the inquiring mind of an intelligent teen was like a sponge in water. Frida soaked it up and went on to use many symbolic principles in her paintings and retablos.

In San Francisco, from the moment they stepped off the train, she literally stopped traffic. Her ensemble had locals halting mid-street to stare at her in her huaraches under a long peasant skirt, green striped shawl, and dangling earrings as they made their way to Montgomery Street, part of the old Barbary Coast where the artists' co-op they'd live in was located. "Even in this bohemian section of San Francisco," remarked photographer and friend Edward Weston, "the sight of this unknown Mexican woman created excitement."

Allegory of California by Rivera in the Pacific Stock Exchange, 1931

LA INDIA BONITA

Weston's photos of Frida during her San Francisco stay along with those of Imogen Cunningham would come to be known as the best taken of her in that period. Weston captured her physical strength in strong arm and back muscles, along with her political strength as an indigenous woman. His photos helped establish this important symbol of her identity. She proudly wore her rebozo which conveyed allegiance to indigenous women throughout Mexico. His photos showed a striking, thoughtful, indigenous woman.

"Frida was creating a new persona of the indigenous Mexican woman by combining the traits of beauty and intelligence," Stahr wrote.

Frida in Rebozo (Toni Frissell, 1937)

Some of Kahlo's caricature can be attributed to a beauty pageant that took place in Mexico when she was 15. A newspaper sponsored a beauty pageant for indigenous women called La India Bonita. Publisher Felix Palavicini, a former revolutionary, wanted to validate Indian female beauty and the pageant was the thing. A young Nahuatl-speaking 14-year old woman from Sierra Norte de Puebla won, becoming the new face for Mexican indigenous women. This inspired Kahlo. In San Francisco she solidified her "La India Bonita" persona and brought together indigenous pride with a modern twist. Her long peasant skirts also served another purpose: they covered up her right leg and injured foot.

Diego's studio was on the top floor of the co-op where he worked daily on sketches for his new mural. With Diego absent, Frida painted "quite a lot, almost all day long," she wrote her mother. She wanted to have an exhibition in San Francisco and worked hard to create enough paintings for one. From the beginning of their relationship, said Stahr, they related to each other as painters and things didn't change in San Francisco.

WOMEN ARTISTS

Frida in San Francisco
(Imogen Cunningham)

Rivera and Kahlo hung out with artists, rubbing shoulders with prominent writers and photographers. Kahlo met and bonded with Dorothea Lange shortly before her Depression era photographic journey through America. Meeting women artists was an additional benefit to Kahlo on their west coast sojourn. These friendships became a great source of strength. She made art weekly with two women from the co-op where they painted wildly inappropriate things, swore, smoked, and laughed. For Kahlo, this was a time of creative freedom allowing her to delve into taboo topics, helping her to find her own voice. San Francisco's MOMA stated "Her style moved from a broad, mural-like handling to a folkloric mode based on 19th century Mexican portraiture."

In that era, women had to take advantage of any opportunity that came their way. Soon Frida's experimentation would pay off. Though women were banned from the Bohemian Club where male artists gathered, they formed the San Francisco Society of Women Artists with organized exhibits at the Legion of Honor. Though not a member, Frida benefited. Her American art debut took place at one of the society's annual exhibitions and in it, she displayed her marriage portrait.

A PHYSICIAN WITH HEART

"Frieda" and Diego Rivera (Marriage Portrait)

During their time in the city which included long meandering walks, late nights, and hours of painting, her leg began to ache more and more. At this time she met Dr. Leo Eloesser, who from day one would become a stabilizing force in her life. He gave her thorough examinations and recommendations that proved beneficial to her physical and mental well being. The doctor clicked not only with Kahlo but with Rivera as well and their friendship was lifelong. Frida said he had the heart of a musician, which he was. With a medical practice by day, he played viola at night. He also spoke fluent Spanish making communication easy. 

Frida's most profound experiences on the west coast would occur north of the city. When neighbor and sculptor Ralph Stackpole and his girlfriend Ginette whisked the two away to Bohemian Grove in Monte Rio, 70 miles north, she was in awe. Though off limits to women, Stackpole would have been able to get Frida in as a guest. She wrote her mother that she felt reverence when she stepped onto the grounds, in the presence of thousand year old sequoia redwoods.

Frida and Diego at Luther Burbank's Gardens

LUTHER BURBANK'S INFLUENCE

Shortly after that adventure, Stackpole and Ginette took them to Luther Burbank's house in Santa Rosa. Though the horticulturist had been dead four years, his widow Elizabeth discussed at length her husband's legacy. Burbank had created more than eight hundred varieties of hybrid fruits; he had been inspired by Charles Darwin, writing, "Nature selected by a law the survival of the fittest...the fitness of the plant to stand up under a new or changed environment."

Luther Burbank by Frida Kahlo

They walked his gardens to feel his presence. The grounds were "magical," Frida said. Already an avid admirer of alchemy, "Luther must have seemed an alchemist, transforming existing varieties of plants into new ones," wrote Stahr. Back in her studio, Kahlo's mind went to work painting Burbank. Her 1931 Portrait of Luther Burbank shows him partly as soil and partly human, a major departure from any of her paintings up to that time. Many art scholars consider this work to be her creative breakthrough.

PERFECT STORM

Scholars also say that by living in a foreign country as she was beginning to define her artistic path, she was being exposed to a kaleidoscope of new sights, experiences, artists, and ideas. Her encounters at the Bohemian Grove's ancient redwoods and viewing Luther Burbank's gardens had a profound affect on her, along with the weekly creative experimentations she enjoyed with her women artist friends. Though her art drew upon a vast body of knowledge rooted in her Mexican upbringing, she synthesized it with new experiences she'd gained in California. It was the perfect storm for a creative-inventive-intuitive like Kahlo. Not only did San Francisco have the right stuff, but so did Frida Kahlo. 

Part 2 of Frida in America explores the next step in their U.S. journey as she and Rivera head to New York and Detroit.

*Frida lived in Mexico which is North America. The author Stahr's Frida in America refers to the United States of America.

If you enjoyed this post, check out my other works, Where the Sky is Born: Living in the Land of the Maya. It's available on Amazon with tales of expat life and living within 100 miles of four major pyramid sites. Also, check out my website at www.jeaninekitchel.com. Books one and two in my Mexico cartel trilogy, Wheels Up—A Novel of Drugs, Cartels and Survival, and Tulum Takedown, are available on Amazon where you can find my overview of the 2012 Maya calendar phenomenon, Maya 2012 Revealed—Demystifying the Prophecy.