Friday, April 1, 2022

HOW CAN MEXICO ADDRESS ITS STREET DOG PROBLEM?


Smiley, My Favorite Beach Dog

Mexico has many, many street and beach dogs. If you've been to Mexico, you've seen them—animals without a home, often hungry, sometimes unhealthy or hurt, sleeping on dusty pueblo streets. 

Unfortunately, according to the National Institute of Statistics and Geography, Mexico leads the pack in Latin America for the highest number of street dogs. Of roughly 18 million dogs in Mexico, 70 percent live on the street.


HISTORY

Mexico street dogs are scrappy and street-wise, a catch-all breed that most likely descends from stray and feral dog populations that roam the country's streets and beaches. Often these dogs aren't companion animals but forced to become self sufficient scavengers, canines closely related to dogs that roamed thousands of years ago.


PUERTO MORELOS

We were in Puerto Morelos for years and eventually ran into Smiley, one of the town's beach dogs. He started to hang out on our beach, coming for weeks at a time, and going equally as much. Beach dogs develop an attachment to people for a while, then move on. At times he was there every morning and he'd join me on my beach walks. People thought he was my dog. Nope, he's a beach dog I'd say. 

Beach dogs are uncannily smart and always seem to know where their next meal will come from. Before he made his way down to our beach a kilometer from the square, we'd seen him around town, not unlike his mother, Princess Coconut. Coconut was named by the staff at Johnny Cairo's, a local restaurant, where she hung out. She was a permanent fixture at the front entrance, and they gave her a pink rhinestone collar, thus the name. She'd follow young tourist couples who had doggie bags right out the restaurant door. Smiley had learned his tricks from Coconut. They'd follow the couple for a week, then move on. Maybe it was the best of all worlds. They'd have effusive love and food for a short while, but when things got too permanent, time for a change.

For me, I could always tell when it was time for Smiley to leave. He'd join me under the palapa where I'd read daily, lying on the sand next to me. Then one day he'd be a bit farther away, then the next—mid beach—then finally, at the shoreline. He would turn and give one last wag and trot off. A couple weeks later he'd resurface. No chagrin; he needed his space. And we always welcomed him back with open arms. 


We tried to take him to the vet once—but that didn't work out well. Somehow we wrangled a collar around his neck and nudged him into the back seat of the car. That lasted about two seconds. He pulled out of the collar in a move that would have made Houdini proud, jetted out of the car and into the yard. He waited for us at the gate, expectantly and a little nervous. Of course we obliged, opened the gate, and he bolted out into the sascab road. So much for good intentions.


ISSUES

Why does Mexico have a stray dog problem? The street dog issue—in Mexico and elsewhere—is complicated. Sometimes it comes down to pet owners who bit off more than they could chew, but often it comes down to limited access to spay and neuter programs—the keys to solving animal homelessness in the country. Often too in Mexico, dogs are expected to find their own food. It's a horrible sight to see homeless dogs, but even worse when they're starving.

Luckily there are many organizations and pet rescue associations that aim to spay or neuter dogs or find them a new home. Here's a list of pet rescue organizations in the Riviera Maya. If you live in Mexico and want a dog, consider adopting one from an organization such as those listed below. It's also not hard to re-patriate dogs, and organizations like these can set you up with the right forms and information on getting your new pooch from Point A to Point B.


Sparky on Isla Mujeres (photo Lynda L. Lock)

Author Lynda L. Lock, formerly of Isla Mujeres, adopted Sparky, a spunky little Heinz 57, who was so captivating he worked his way into her Isla Mujeres Mystery series, beginning with a cameo in book number one, Treasure Isla. And it didn't stop there! In the photo above, one can easily see he acclimated to his Life of Riley, waiting in his personal golf cart for the caddy to bring his clubs.

Many Mexican dogs find new homes abroad. This list of pet rescue services and organizations from Cancun down to Chetumal, though far from complete, is a start if you're thinking of taking a little bit of Mexico home with you in the form of a furry, four-legged creature. If you're local and need assistance with health issues or neutering, these organizations can assist or point you in the right direction. If you're not from Quintana Roo, locate a "pet rescue" organization in your area through Facebook. Many of the organizations need assistance in the work they do and if you're on an extended vacation and want to show support, get in touch and offer your services. Your love and kindness can create a whole new world for a stray and add an extra spoonful of sugar to your life as well. Viva Mexico! 

CANCUN

Cancun Animal Rescue and Adoption
Contact through Facebook page.

Riviera Rescue AC (Rescue-Foster-Adopt)
Contact Matteo Saucedo through Facebook page.

HOLBOX

Refugio Animal Holbox
Contact through Facebook page.

ISLA MUJERES

Isla Animals, Isla
Contact through Facebook page.

Clinica Veterinaria de Isla Mujeres AC
Contact through Facebook page.

PUERTO MORELOS

Food Bank for Cats and Dogs Puerto Morelos
Contact Claudia Mendiola through Facebook page.

Puerto Morelos Sterilization Project
Contact Betsy Walker through Facebook page.

Puerto Morelos Cause4Paws
Contact Diane Curtis through Facebook page.

Riviera Rescue AC
Contact Matteo Saucedo through Facebook page.

PLAYA DEL CARMEN

The Snoopi Project-Riviera Maya
Contact through Facebook page.

Coco's Animal Welfare, Playa del Carmen
Contact Coco through Facebook page.

SOS El Arca
Contact through Facebook page.

AKUMAL

Street Dog Strides
Contact through Facebook page.

TULUM

Alma Animal Tulum AC
Contact Alma through Facebook page.

Help Tulum Dogs
Contact through Facebook page.

MAHAHUAL

Costa Maya Beach Dog Rescue, Mahahual
Contact Heather through Facebook page.

CHETUMAL
Pancitas Felices, Chetumal
Contact Karla through Facebook page.


If you enjoyed this post, check out my other works, Where the Sky is Born: Living in the Land of the Maya. It's available on Amazon with tales of expat life and living within 100 miles of four major pyramid sites. Also, check out my website at www.jeaninekitchel.com. Books one and two in my Mexico cartel trilogy, Wheels Up—A Novel of Drugs, Cartels and Survival, and Tulum Takedown, are available on Amazon where you can find my overview of the 2012 Maya calendar phenomenon, Maya 2012 Revealed—Demystifying the Prophecy.

































Friday, March 18, 2022

THE MAGNIFICENT MAYA CALENDAR SYSTEM AND HOW IT WORKS


Maya Calendar (historyonthenet.com)

"The deep time of the Maya calendar is stunning in its scale. . . It expressed the grandest expressions of time ever put down on stone or paper by human minds." David Stuart, archeologist and MacArthur Genius Grant recipient.  


THE CALENDARS

What if you thought of a calendar—or time—as a spiral, not a sheaf of papers that hang on a wall?

The Maya viewed time differently than we do today with the Gregorian calendar. The present was determined by the past. Everything repeated, everything was a recurring pattern. They only had to view the past to know what would happen in the future. Their intricate system of separate calendars was possibly used for predictions, say some archaeologists like Michael Coe, though others would disagree. It is widely thought that they borrowed the system from their Mesoamerican neighbors, the Olmec.

True Maya Calendar from Madrid Codex


Three calendars were a staple of every day Maya life. This triumvirate includes the Tzol'kin, or sacred round, which lasts 260 days; the Haab', which is a 360-day "solar"calendar to coordinate with the total number of days it takes the earth to rotate around the sun but with five 'days that had no name' at the end coming to 365; and the Long Count calendar, one of the most important cycles of Maya time, which lasts 5,125 years and which had been forecast to end on December 21, 2012.






COUNT OF DAYS


The 260-day Tzol'kin calendar is religious in its bearing. The count of days, as it is also known, was invented by pairing two smaller cycles—numbers one through thirteen—which equals the number of layers in Maya heaven, and the cycle of the twenty "day" names. The Tzol'kin is formed as a circle, not as a straight line.

"There is nothing quite like it, anywhere else in the world, " says archaeo-astronomer Anthony Aveni, author of The End of Time: The Maya Mystery of 2012. "The sacred Tzol'kin is the centerpiece of the Maya calendar system; it is the single most important chunk of time the Maya ever kept, and still keep, in remote areas.

"But why 260?" pondered Aveni. "Multiply numbers thirteen and twenty? Also the Venus cycle's appearance as morning or evening star is 263 days."

Aveni believes that 260 days came about as some enlightened daykeeper, eons ago, realized this particular number signified so much.


FOCAL HARMONY

"It was a focal harmony point. It brought together so many of nature's phenomena: the moon, Venus, planting cycles. It may not have come about in a flash," he continues, "but with Maya knowledge that number and nature are joined together perfectly, the discovery of the multiple significance of 260 was bound to be raised to prominence in Maya time consciousness. One even took their name and their fortune from the day name in the 260-day count calendar."






COMMUNING WITH THE GODS

Maya God Images (mayangods.com)

The Tzol'kin could have been used for making predictions, for communicating with the gods. The Maya believed a god ruled each day, and depending on that god's traits, it could be good or bad for certain activities. This calendar was used in the way one's horoscope would be viewed today.

The calendar is easy to remember and that's why it has been passed down and is still in use. It fits into the culture of the people, said Barbara Tedlock, anthropologist and author of Time and the Highland Maya.

The Haab' calendar, which works with the Tzol'kin, has 18 named "months" of 20 calendar days each. The Maya then added five days at the end of this 360-day cycle. It was considered a nineteenth month and these five odd days were considered unlucky but essential to bring a total of 365 days for a full rotation cycle.

Caracol Observatory at Chichen Itzá

CALENDAR ROUND

These two calendars, like cogs in a wheel, meshed a named day in the Tzol'kin and also had a conjunct day in the Haab'. But this same "double" day could never reproduce again for 52 years, roughly the length of a human life. This was called the calendar round, and the only annual time count possessed by the people of Mexico. There were 260 possible different combinations of number and name in this creation. A Maya Calendar Round date is actually two dates listed as a pair, with a separate reference point.

Night Star Gazing at Chichen Itza (by Chichenitza.com)

In this combined calendar round, slippage occurred because a year is actually 365.24 days which as mathematicians and stargazers extraordinaire they had computed, but this did not bother the Maya. Nor did they try to play catch up like we do with leap years. They just let time roll along.

"That would mean Christmas could back up to early fall or the Fourth of July might back up into the cold of winter for us," said Anthony Aveni. "It wasn't of concern to the Maya," he continued, "because they placed more emphasis on following an unbroken chain of time."


52-YEAR CYCLE

This 52-year cycle combination was celebrated throughout Mesoamerica. The Aztecs included it in their fire ceremony that was timed by sky events. At midnight, when the calendar keepers saw the Pleiades had passed the zenith, they knew the movements of the heavens hadn't stopped, the world had not ended, and they would have another 52 years. 

Third in the triumvirate of Maya calendars is the Long Count and although widely used in Mesoamerica, the Maya took it to its highest degree during the classic period. The Long Count consisted of 13 baktuns. One baktun is 400 years. The starting point of the Long Count calendar, according to early archeologist Eric Thompson, was August 11, 3114 BC. It was known as 4 Ahaw.


13TH BAKTUN

This date may have been chosen because it coincided with the completion of a cycle of successful crops, an August summer's day. If you flash forward 5,125 years you come to the cycle's end, and this is where the December 21, 2012 debate came in. It also ended the thirteenth baktun cycle, an auspicious time for the Maya or 13.0.0.0.0. as carved on Maya stela.

Oldest Known Maya Mural, San Bartolo, Guatemala (by sciencenews.com)


Aveni goes on to explain the Maya used this innovation in their calendar so royalty could create a dynastic narrative that covered vast stretches of elapsed time. It extended Maya culture all the way back to the creation of the gods, cementing the reputation of daykeepers and royalty as gods themselves.


DAYKEEPERS

The daykeepers act as go-betweens. "They are empowered to make prayers to the gods and ancestors on behalf of the lay people," Barbara Tedlock said.

Maya Scribe

He or she pays attention to each and every day, making offerings of copal incense and lighting candles; they also do dream interpretations. Through dreams and reading the day's influence, recommendations were then made for the best course of action and both were used to plot one's future. Barbara Tedlock, anthologist along with her husband Dennis, author, translator and anthrologist, were initiated as daykeepers in a Guatemala highlands pueblo where they lived from 1975 to 1979, a very unusual occurrence for those not of Maya descent. 

It's hard for the modern world to fathom why such a complex calendar system existed. Michael Coe, archeologist and author of The Maya (Editions one through eight), stated his belief of the why's and wherefores like this: "How such a period of time even came into being is an enigma, but the use to which it was put is clear: Every single day had its own omens and associations and the march of the twenty days acted like a fortune-telling machine guiding the destinies of all the Maya and the peoples of Mexico who used this calendar. It still survives in unchanged form among some indigenous peoples of southern Mexico and the Maya highlands, under the guard of the calendar priests."


Maya Stela of Ruler

With this calendar fashioned as a direct line to the cosmos, royalty and priests were able to govern and control the masses by predicting common events. Most likely with the aid of their calendars and the predictions derived from them, the Maya enjoyed 1500 years of relative stability. It was not until ninth century AD, the finale of the classic period of the Maya, that the Long Count was abandoned and not seen again on Maya stela. Times were changing. One wonders if the stars and calendars predicted that. And I would guess that yes, they did.


If you enjoyed this post, check out my other works, Where the Sky is Born: Living in the Land of the Maya. It's available on Amazon with tales of expat life and living within 100 miles of four major pyramid sites. Also, check out my website at www.jeaninekitchel.com. Books one and two in my Mexico cartel trilogy, Wheels Up—A Novel of Drugs, Cartels and Survival, and Tulum Takedown, are available on Amazon where you can find my overview of the 2012 Maya calendar phenomenon, Maya 2012 Revealed—Demystifying the Prophecy.*


*Excerpts of Chapter 6 from my book Maya 2012 Revealed—Demystifying the Prophecy were used in the post.





Friday, March 4, 2022

BUENOS AIRES SITS NEAR THE BOTTOM OF THE WORLD BUT THRIVES IN EVERY WAY

 

Tango Attire in Buenos Aires

LOVE LETTER TO BUENOS AIRES

Buenos Aires is a thriving, elegant city situated at the end of the world. It doesn't seem possible that this phenomenon of a metropolis exists on the outset of the North American time zone (five hours earlier than San Francisco) so very far away from everything. It's like it just popped up, with lavish Paris style buildings, lush and well-thought out parks, magical tree buttresses the size of Volkswagens, fast drivers but patient citizens, grocery stores with vegetable sections that could vie for a Bon Appetit centerfold, each tomato, avocado, head of lettuce meticulously placed, tempting a caress.                 

                                                                               




RESTAURANTS

Restaurants, too many to count, serving grass fed beef you can cut with a spoon, salads with up to five 'gustos' or additions: tomatoes, onions, corn, peas, carrots, beets. Old world waiters in starched white shirts, black bowties and waist-high aprons—even at the smallest coffee shops—seating you with a nod or a flourish, then standing by as you ponder the menu. The city's fixated on food, with the popular parrilla leading the way, followed by a concentration of Italian eateries from high end to pizzeria. Every other food appears too, with plentiful choices. Argentina's turn of the century melting pot had no limits: Italian, Greek, Spanish, Irish, French, Chinese, Indian, English, German, and now the occasional gringo.


Rio Alba Restaurant (by author)

                                                                                                

ARCHITECTURE

Ultra modern high-rise apartments intertwine with ancient buildings, some in disrepair like the sidewalks, where busy passersby go about their daily routines. Trees line the streets, stretching stories high, home to birds singing lovely solos, too melodic to seem real. Buses, subways and taxis move the active locals from Point A to B. Average stature, thin and trim, intelligence level high. Everyone has an opinion and you'll hear it if you ask. A common phrase: God is everywhere but serves in Argentina. There's a quick wit and readiness to laugh. Strangers help with questions, no rebuffs.


Summer weather (north of the equator's winter) borders on godly—mid-eighties with light humidity, just enough to make my hair have a little tweak. Short sleeves and sandals, the clothing of choice.

Flea markets appear in countless parks on weekends in contrast to high-end stores like Hermes and Yves Saint Laurent in various chic parts of town. Elderly women walk with doting daughters on their elbows, afternoon strolls to who knows where.

The peso fluctuates constantly, with two deep cuts on the heels of the 2000 debacle that brought this thriving country to its knees. But still, the Porteños find time to tango.


TANGO

La Boca, where tango was born, still compels locals and tourists alike to throng El Caminito, to watch non-stop street tango performed by tango dancers extraordinaire. La Boca, which means 'the mouth' in Spanish, was once literally the mouth of Buenos Aires as it's located in what used to be the city's biggest port. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, immigrants set up shop in the surrounding vicinity, working the docks, earning a wage, while yearning for their far away homelands. From these cravings was born the tango. The haphazard shanty houses, still standing, line the streets, made from sheet metal and wooden planks and painted in bright colors. 


La Boca streets (by author)

While strolling through La Boca, we took a seat at an outdoor cafe to have a café and watch street tango. This conversation floated my way.

"We're not American," I heard the guy next to me tell the waiter in Spanish as he looked over his check. 

Every restaurant table was filled in La Boca. The sun was out and so were the tourists."Why are you charging me to use a fork?"

That was a new spin. I'd lived in Mexico for years and had a knack for detecting certain discrepancies. But using a fork carried a surcharge? That was a new spin. The discussion heated up as his girlfriend got involved. I tuned out.

Time to watch the passersby and the street-side tango. What legs she had, the dancer, in an off-blue high slit backless dress. Dark hair with high sheen, pulled back in a low bun. I'd heard the sad lonely song from the bandoleon somewhere before. Her partner, black suit, white shirt, Cuban hat, moved along with her ignoring the crowd.


Tango Dancers (by author)


If you enjoyed this post, check out my other works, Where the Sky is Born: Living in the Land of the Maya. It's available on Amazon with tales of expat life and living within 100 miles of four major pyramid sites. Also, check out my website at www.jeaninekitchel.com. Books one and two in my Mexico cartel trilogy, Wheels Up—A Novel of Drugs, Cartels and Survival, and Tulum Takedown, are available on Amazon where you can find my overview of the 2012 Maya calendar phenomenon, Maya 2012 Revealed—Demystifying the Prophecy. 


Wood Mural in La Boca, Buenos Aires (by author)


Friday, February 18, 2022

DID 2012 MAYA CALENDAR'S LONG-COUNT END DATE USHER IN AN EPOCH OF CHANGE?

 


Scribe on Maya plate


Have we entered a new epoch that began in 2012? You may recall the 2012 Maya calendar kerfuffle. First off, the media got it wrong. The Maya never predicted the world would end on the last day of their thirteenth baktun in the Maya Long Count cycle. But Maya elders did say we were in for a time of transition. Is that transition now?

As a Mayaphile and student of Maya culture, I wrote Maya 2012 Revealed: Demystifying the Prophecy, to quash false information about the supposed "end date" in their Long Count calendar, one of 28 in the time-obsessed Maya system, that was being dangled like a piece of fresh meat before a pack of hungry wolves. The calendar simply rolled over into a new cycle and they started counting anew.


Maya Calendar (Historyonthenet.com)


But old habits die hard and just over a year ago a ruckus erupted over a tweet that suggested the Maya 2012 end of the world prophecy was off by a good eight years. That catapulted said end date smack dab into the cross hairs of 2020 —what a year that ended up being. 

The prediction however was not made by an eminent Maya academic or even a calendar researcher, but by plant biologist and Fulbright scholar at University of Tennessee, Paolo Tagalogquin. His Twitter account has since been deleted.

With ongoing global events, that very possibility—the world ending—may have crossed your mind.  And for the beginning of "the end" to start in 2020? Well, we've lived through two years of continuous threat from a raging pandemic still not fully in check. Let it be said some of us may have considered that to be a precursor of things to come. But it looks like we're still standing.


END OF 13TH BAKTUN

To explain biologist Tagalogquin's reasoning, apparently he did a math re-do on the Julian calendar that dates back to 8 CE and was used until the Gregorian or Christian calendar came into being in 1752. After his calculations, he came up with this tweet: "Following the Julian calendar, we are technically in 2012. The number of days lost in a year due to the shift into the Gregorian calendar is 11 days. For 268 years using the Gregorian calendar (1752 - 2020) times 11 days equals 2,948 days / 365 (per year) equals eight years."

The subtext: I assume you have your affairs in order.

Dresden Codex providing clues to Maya calendars (NGS photo)

Back in 2012, some believed December 21, 2012, might be the end. The media blared non-stop that this was when the Maya Long Count calendar completed a 5, 125 year cycle known as the 13th baktun. The ancient Maya, an advanced culture of mathematicians (they invented zero) and naked eye astronomers, viewed this moment as consequential.



CALENDAR SHUFFLE

Why is this even important? If the Maya code had not been deciphered a few decades ago, we wouldn't even have known that an end date to the Long Count calendar existed.

In researching the Maya end date, I realized that converting both Julian and Gregorian calendars to the Maya calendar had been no easy task. Spanish speaking priests were used for the conversion and needed to interact with the Maya who had their own language. Not only was there room for error in language differences, but the Julian calendar had gone through several trial runs over the centuries as the world coped with a one-time-fits-all calendar system.

During the conversion, some countries used different calendar renditions simultaneously, and some time in the 1500s while trying to play catch-up, eleven days were lost in a single month. My overall impression: whoever had been relegated to configure dates from Julian to Gregorian to Maya had stared down an impossible undertaking. And furthermore, who was their fact checker?


RIGOBERTA MENCHÚ CHEN

As the end date blossomed into a full-on media phenomenon, I took a wider view of the "Maya prophecy" as it came to be known. Great change doesn't happen overnight and can span decades or even centuries, and as with all things Maya, the present is determined by the past. Everything repeats. Everything is a recurring pattern.

Rigoberta Menchú Tum, Nobel Laureate

In 2012 Nobel laureate and author Rigoberto Menchú Tum, a Ki'che' Maya from Guatemala who was forced to leave her country when her government disappeared thousands of indigenous Maya, said this, "There are a lot of people speaking for the Maya with little respect for the sacred Maya calendar or the culture.


TIME DOES NOT EXIST

"For us, the Maya, during this phase, time does not exist. Time is completely dispersed. It is 'disordered time,' when the greatest breakdown of humanity will occur, plagued by loneliness, stress and fear.

"The Maya elders say if we do not take right action today, one-quarter of the people of the earth will perish."

Tum said this in 2012. Flash forward to 2020—especially the "plagued by loneliness, stress and fear" part of her quote and we can cast her as a Cassandra-like figure in light of the Covid pandemic. And we can all agree that in the past several years numerous issues have caused hardship: floods, hurricanes, raging fires, wars, racial inequality and unwarranted deaths. The stark reality of all the above drives away any hope for a soon to be bright future.


A MOMENT OF CHAOS

Maya Renaissance film by PeaceJam

In a documentary film, 2012: The True Mayan Prophecy, Dawn Engle and Ivan Suvanjieff, film makers and founders of the non-profit PeaceJam, interviewed Maya elders along with Menchú Tum. In the interview, Menchú Tum said we're living in a moment of chaos, and though there is global disorder, 2012 would usher in a more balanced period, if only we allow it.


DISORDERED TIME

"A new time is drawing near so it is important to maintain the light shining in these days, and our personal and collective light," she said. "We are passing through a period of disordered time which began in 1992 and will last forty years. There are things that happened that are not merely caused by people. It is the age, the energy, the cosmos."


TRANSITION TAKES TIME

In the film, Menchú Tum references her spiritual advisors, Maria Faviana Chocoy Alva and Pedro Celestino Pac Noy, who state that apocalyptic predictions misrepresent the true meaning of the end of the Maya Long Count cycle known as the thirteenth baktun. Their position is that this would be a time of great transition.

Calendar cycle cogs (By DK)
Who cannot agree that this is a time of transition, said Menchú Tum. "For humanity, it is the darkest of times. Humanity is being called to a great respon-sibility, affected by our actions. We call them natural disasters but they are not natural. Much pain is already occurring."

Again, Menchú Tum's sagacious predictions are synonymous with what we are presently living with—the human pain endured by the Covid pandemic, the earth's pain due to our disconnect from Mother Nature, and the atrocities humans have unleashed on the planet. Time, as the Maya might say, will tell.

                         **************



If you enjoyed this post, check out my other works, Where the Sky is Born: Living in the Land of the Maya. It's available on Amazon with tales of expat life and living within 100 miles of four major pyramid sites. Also, check out my website at www.jeaninekitchel.com. Books one and two in my Mexico cartel trilogy, Wheels Up—A Novel of Drugs, Cartels and Survival, and Tulum Takedown, are available on Amazon where you can find my overview of the 2012 Maya calendar phenomenon, Maya 2012 Revealed—Demystifying the Prophecy. 

                      

Friday, February 4, 2022

FRIDA AND DIEGO'S CROSS-COUNTRY JOURNEY CREATED ART, CONTROVERSY AND FAME


Self-Portrait on the Borderline Between Mexico and the United States 1931

PART 2 

Frida Kahlo's travel to the United States began in San Francisco where she and husband Diego Rivera lived in 1930 and 1931. Rivera, the most famous artist in the world at the time, bigger even than Picasso, had been commissioned to paint two murals in the city. If ever there was a working vacation, this was it. On the project's completion, they traveled from the west coast briefly back to Mexico, and from there, caught a ship via Cuba to New York, the second leg of their stateside journey. Kahlo and Rivera were no doubt the most artistically involved couple the world has ever seen. Both fed off the other's imagination, work, and inspiration, dove-tailing their way into making art that revered their native land. 

During that time, scholars credit 23-year old Kahlo's creative breakthrough to an over abundance of input, not uncommon for an emerging artist in new surroundings. Her world had expanded and she was able to paint with other artists while experiencing the sights of San Francisco which she called "the city of the world." Her art also drew on a vast body of knowledge rooted in her Mexican upbringing, which she then synthesized with experiences she gained in California—a perfect storm for an emerging talent such as Kahlo.


NEW YORK, NEW YORK

Frida and Diego in New York, 1932
In New York they stayed at the Barbizon-Plaza on Central Park South, the first music-art residence center in the US, complete with art studios, only two blocks from the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA). Soon after they arrived they were swept up into the social lives of many prominent people. Everyone wanted to meet Diego Rivera and his wife Frida. Though Rivera was quite the social butterfly, Kahlo not so much.


Rivera would exhibit at MoMA and had also been commissioned by John D. Rockefeller's wife, Abby, to re-create a mural in their home titled Wall Street Banquet, which had featured Rockefeller, Henry Ford and J. P. Morgan. After consideration, Rivera declined as it was quite controversial, casting the scions of industry in a bad light.


CLASS STRUGGLE

In New York, Frida observed the huge disparity between the wealthy and the poor. At first she and Rivera, though surrounded by well-heeled patrons, kept "witnessing the horrible poverty and the millions of people who have no work, food, or home, who have no hope in this country of scumbag millionaires who greedily grab everything," she wrote her mother. 

New York City Out-of-Work Dock Workers 1932

They visited a homeless shelter where they saw people sleeping "like dogs in a pen," she wrote. With the Depression in its third year, grim reality had set in and Rivera was inspired to paint Frozen Assets, where bodies were placed in morgues hidden away beneath cranes of industry. They witnessed a multitude of encampments nicknamed "Hoover Valley" for the president.






HARLEM SHUFFLE

After Diego's lengthy workaholic days at MoMA, at night they gravitated to Harlem for the jazz clubs, speakeasies, and dance halls though Kahlo noticed disparity there, too. While the world teetered on economic collapse, shrewd Frida noted the white and middle class headed to Harlem where the main draw was dancing and drinking while "feeling superior in whites-only clubs featuring black entertainers," wrote Celia Stahr, author of Frida in America.




Outspoken Frida called it out. Women of color pleasing the masses. "Everything here is pure show but down deep it's all real shit.  By now I'm completely disappointed in the famous United States," she wrote her mother. She said near Central Park where they lived, it was beautiful with fancy shops and restaurants while the working class lived in areas reeking of garbage. New York, she said, presented a "new level of poverty."


FRIDA PAINTS

In New York she stewed about injustice and in a new painting, she encapsulated a world where everything was pure show, titled Window Display on a Street in Detroit (though she began the painting in New York, she finished it in Detroit, 1931). Meanwhile Rivera sweated out finishing his last murals for the MoMA exhibit with five Mexican-themed murals—Indian Warrior, Sugar Cane, Liberation of the Peon, Agrarian Leader Zapata, and The Uprising.

Window Display a Street in Detroit, Frida Kahlo
For the opening, Rivera had painted 23 murals, 56 oil paintings and would display 89 water colors, sketches, and drawings (some on borrow). In many ways, Rivera and Kahlo were the social conscience of the country they visited. They saw things from unblemished eyes and painted their truths. (Below: Agrarian Leader Zapata and Sugar Cane, by Diego Rivera for DIA, from www.diegorivera.org).



MEETING GEORGIA

At the MoMA opening, Kahlo met famous photographer Alfred Stieglitz, husband of rising star Georgia O'Keefe. In O'Keefe she saw a woman who mirrored her in many ways—a painter married to a successful artist twice her age, a lover of nature and Indian culture, and a sexually free being, wrote author Celia Stahr. It's well known that O'Keefe and Kahlo had a relationship, though neither of them spoke about it openly.

Georgia O'Keefe (by Alfred Stieglitz)

Meanwhile the world of fashion contributed to the blurring of distinctions between labels such as bi-sexual and New Woman. Both Frida and Georgia, said Stahr, utilized the androgynous look to defy stereotypical norms and to assert their own independence and power as artists. 

Though Kahlo and Rivera only spent six months in New York, it was a stepping stone for Kahlo. She made closer friends than in San Francisco, including getting re-acquainted with old friends from Mexico. During her last months in the city she made two drawings, both titled The Dream. They had a surrealistic quality that the art world took note of, and the second one turned out to be prophetic—it showed her being impregnated by Rivera's "seed." Later that month she discovered she was pregnant.


MOTOR CITY

The train to Detroit took 14 hours from New York, long enough to transition from the world's most vibrant city into the city of technology and manufacturing, and the midwest—a far cry from the hub of activity and style she had just left. But Detroit's train station, beautifully constructed in the Beaux Arts style, cheered Frida's heart. Upon entering Detroit proper, however, the couple was soon to find out the city, in the depths of the Depression, was 50 percent unemployed. Poverty in Detroit was worse than NYC. 

Michigan Central Station (Vintage Michigan)

The U.S. manufacturing capital proved to be more alien to Frida's Mexican heart than either San Francisco or New York. In a city of 1.5 million, only 15,000 were Hispanic. She'd never felt more alone. And they'd arrived shortly after a five thousand people protest in front of Ford Motor had ended in gunfire, killing four.

She'd entered a war zone. Poor, unemployed people, no jobs, no housing, as Ford had provided company housing for many of his workers. Not to mention the city was anti-Semitic and she had Jewish blood. She was in hell. Things were going from bad to worse. Plus she was pregnant, and with problems left over from the accident in her broken body, she didn't know if she could sustain a pregnancy. She considered abortion but was talked out of it. Eventually her Detroit obstetrician performed a C-section, but the child did not live.


BAD NEWS BACK HOME

Trouble however, was not yet done with her. Shortly after the disaster of losing the child, she learned her mother was desperately ill in Mexico and a last minute trip to see her had to be arranged. With Diego commissioned for murals to both Ford and the Detroit Institute of Art (DIA), he wouldn't be able to accompany her. Luckily artist/photographer Lucienne Bloch, Rivera's assistant and Frida's friend, said she'd go along. Tickets were booked for the daunting train ride and border crossing. They arrived September 9, nearly three days later in Mexico City, slowed by enormous flooding in Laredo. Her sisters met her at the station as her father was not in good condition either. 

Guillermo Kahlo and Matilde Calderón, Frida's mother
Frida's mother had breast cancer and died a day after an arduous surgery. Frida's entire family was beyond distraught. When she told her father about Matilde's death, "he was done for," said Lucienne Bloch.  Kahlo returned from Mexico six weeks later to a city she despised and to a husband she feared was having an affair with one of his benefactors. Getting back into a routine and finding a rhythm with Diego proved challenging, wrote Stahr. When she met mythologist Joseph Campbell years later, he would tell her she had embarked on the classic Hero's Journey: Bus accident, miscarriage, mother's death. After all this, she returned to Detroit a changed person.

Disgusted with everything, she demanded DIA allow her to have a studio at the museum. Being away from patrons and society matrons who wanted to only talk clothes and gossip, this would give her the freedom to concentrate on her art with no interruptions. Her painting, My Birth, was born at this time. It was a painting that allowed her to release her fears and was considered another breakthrough.


MURALS ON DISPLAY

Diego's hectic schedule proved successful. He completed 77 panels for the DIA's Garden Court in March 1933, though not without controversy regarding his Communist leanings, written about by a Time magazine reporter. Doubts failed quickly though as the DIA opened the courtyard to early onlookers for ten cents a ticket to preview the murals for themselves. In three days 13 thousand people paraded through and were thoroughly impressed. All malicious thoughts fell away, and Edsel Ford was quoted as saying, "I admire Rivera's spirit. I believe he was trying to express his ideas about the spirit of Detroit." 

Detroit Industry Mural Panel by Diego Rivera (photo Lucienne Bloch)

Shortly before the formal opening of the murals at the DIA, Frida and Diego left for New York. He had been given a prestigious commission by Rockefeller to paint at the RCA Building in the new Rockefeller Center. Both were on a high: Rivera for his Detroit murals and Frida happy as she'd completed five paintings while in Detroit. A working holiday indeed. 


FIERY CRUSADER OF THE PAINT BRUSH

On Rivera's arrival, New York Times reporter Anita Brenner called him, "the fiery crusader of the paint brush." He began his murals at RCA Building, titling them Man at the Crossroads. As Hitler was heating up in Germany, Rivera wanted to make the rich take notice with his mural. He planned to contrast a scene of fascist warfare on the upper left side of the wall to a May Day demonstration in Moscow on the right, featuring Leon Trotsky, the exiled Russian revolutionary who had played a major role in the new government of the Soviet Union before being ousted by Stalin when he came to power in the twenties. Lenin was also in the mural, and not as a bad guy. Rivera planned to paint great wealth alongside desperate poverty— beauty turning to ugliness. In his murals workers would hold signs that read, "Divided We Starve—United We Eat." 

Man at the Crossroads, by Diego Rivera

As art critics, reporters, and onlookers strode in to take a look, the impression began to take hold that Rivera had a political ideology in mind for his mural. Things reached a crescendo when in April a reporter from New York World Telegram checked in at RCA. He posted a story about the mural with this headline, "Rivera Paints Scenes of Communist Activity and John D. Rockefeller Foots the Bill.'' 

On May 4, days before the mural was to be presented, Rockefeller wrote Rivera a letter asking him to tone down the Communist influence in the painting. Rivera did not defer, and on May 9, police entered the building and were told to shut down the work if Rivera did not paint Lenin out of the mural. Rivera would not concede and was presented with a check for his work and ushered out of the building in his coveralls. The work was boarded up and the only known photographs of it were taken by Lucienne Bloch, photographer and Rivera's assistant.


RIVERA FIGHTS BACK

Fired up, Diego, Frida and their group of workers decided how to counter the RCA shutdown and suppression of his work. Diego would paint murals at three "Communist" schools in New York. The next day the book burnings took place in Germany to "cleanse the German spirit" and this brazen act overrode the brouhaha at RCA Center. Because of Rockefeller's decision to can the murals, Rivera lost the commission to paint at the Chicago World's Fair. He shifted his vitriol against Rockefeller to painting a mural at the New Workers School instead of at the three Communist schools as pay back. 

Because of Rockefeller's act, both Frida and Diego threw themselves into workers' rights protests and political issues for the summer months that year. Rivera, still angered by the brushoff from Rockefeller, wallowed in indecision on how to proceed. Back in Mexico, a mural for a medical school commission awaited him. To soothe his wounds, he'd resorted to an affair with a young sculptress, and didn't keep standard hours at the New School mural. His antics were causing trouble in his marriage and he knew it, plus money was running out. 


A CHAPTER ENDS

Self Portrait With a Necklace, by Frida Kahlo
Frida apparently worked well in adverse situations as she created two more important paintings in their last months in New York: My Dress Hangs Here and Self-Portrait With a Necklace. When they finally boarded the Oriente in New York harbor in December 1933 to return to Mexico, both hoped to restore some balance in their relationship. Stahr wrote Frida had no idea what the future would hold. On leaving Gringolandia, she realized during her time there she'd created her best art. She had gripes about the States and had suffered the trauma of double death in Detroit, but the U.S. was a place where her creative spirit broke through to new heights, allowing her genius to soar. 


In Mexico, things between Kahlo and Rivera would continue to heat up, but as for art, Frida was on her way. 




Quote from Kahlo: "Perhaps it is expected that I should lament how I have suffered living with a man like Diego. But I do not think the banks of a river suffer because they let the river flow, nor does the atom suffer for letting its energy escape."



If you enjoyed this post, check out my other works, Where the Sky is Born: Living in the Land of the Maya. It's available on Amazon with tales of expat life and living within 100 miles of four major pyramid sites. Also, check out my website at www.jeaninekitchel.com. Books one and two in my Mexico cartel trilogy, Wheels Up—A Novel of Drugs, Cartels and Survival, and Tulum Takedown, are available on Amazon where you can find my overview of the 2012 Maya calendar phenomenon, Maya 2012 Revealed—Demystifying the Prophecy.